Oven-Braised Short Rib Ragu With Rigatoni

Author Notes

This short rib ragu recipe relies heavily on technique and methods rather than precise measurements, and I've sprinkled in lots of tips and tricks below to achieve the best possible flavor. Start with high-quality, bone-in short ribs for optimal results. I like to serve this with extra large rigatoni, or paccheri, though any favorite pasta will suffice, and I also recommend making a simple side salad, such as arugula with lemon juice and olive oil, to cut the richness of the ragu.

To ensure well-seasoned results, it's important to salt throughout the cooking process rather than solely at the end. Here are a few of my seasoning tips:

• Start by seasoning both sides of the meat to draw out moisture and allow the salt to permeate the cell walls, seasoning the meat from within. If you really want to go the extra mile (I admittedly almost never do this), season the meat at least 2 hours before cooking to ensure thorough seasoning and to tenderize the meat, enhancing its flavor even more.

• When preparing the sofrito, add a pinch of salt to aid in sweating the onions, but refrain from adding more salt as you build the sauce—the salt from the meat will season the ragu as it braises.

• Be generous with salt when boiling the pasta, as this will not only season the pasta from within but help it cook faster (taste the water with a spoon; it should be noticeably salty). Adding a little salted pasta water to the ragu is yet another way to salt the dish.

• Once the ragu is done, that is when you should taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary. If you’re unsure if it needs more salt, sprinkle a little salt on a spoonful of ragu. If you notice the flavors pop, add more salt to the entire dish.

General Tips & Tricks

• Like I mention above, method matters more than specific measurements here. If you have more than 2 cups of onion, use that. If you have 3 pounds short ribs instead of 2, use 3. The browning from the maillard reaction, slowly cooking the sauce, and seasoning to taste until all the flavors stand out will get you the best results.

• If you must, use boneless instead of bone-in. However, keep in mind that bones keep the meat nice and juicy, and the bone marrow also adds umami and sweetness. Bone-in also tends to have more fat, and while you can cut it off, I’d recommend removing it after cooking. Fat insulates meat and keeps it moist and tender while cooking, and also, fat = flavor.

• Make sure to pat the short ribs dry before salting and cooking. Moisture has to evaporate before any browning can take place, and the drier the meat is, the quicker it’ll brown.

• Use a heavy-bottomed pot, which has even heat distribution and will prevent the ragu from burning in spots while cooking.

• To make ahead, make the ragu sauce according to the directions, then allow it to cool completely and transfer it to sealable containers. Refrigerate for up to 2 to 3 days, or freeze for up to 2 months.


—Nea Arentzen